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Cruising in Fiji

By Peter Ashby

[Click on images to enlarge] 

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So this Fairy Godmother calls up and says, "How would it be if I changed this pumpkin into a mega-yacht and plopped it down in the Pacific someplace with a captain, a cook and some nice friends?" Now, we have read enough fairy stories to know that when an FG makes a suggestion it is best to go along with it. So we said, "Fine."

It was more or less in this way that, last September, we found ourselves on a 64-ft ketch in Fiji. This was a new world to us but there are quite a few mega-yachts down there. They are operated by young couples who look after the boat, and sail it across thousands of miles of ocean to new cruising grounds, moving between the Caribbean, the Mediterranean, the Pacific and New Zealand as the seasons dictate. The owners bring their friends sailing for a few weeks each year. The rest of the time they charter the boat out. 

YasawaWe took off immediately for the Yasawas. These islands are the tips of a submarine mountain range that runs north from the main island of Fiji. These are volcanic islands: Fiji is right on the edge of the Australian Plate just where the Pacific Plate goes grinding by. They are in the trade wind zone so it blows 25-30 knots all the time and can get a bit rough. We mostly sailed with just a number two. There are coral reefs everywhere, all unmarked. You have to know what you are about. Bligh came through here in his 23-ft open boat. You have to admire the guy.

Naviti Island was typical of the places we visited. We anchored at the head of the bay by the village, which is scattered along the beach under a grove of coconuts. 



Your first duty is the "sevu-sevu." In this traditional custom a visitor to an island brings a present to the chief, usually kava root (which is made into a drink), and requests the freedom of the village, the land and the surrounding water, all of which belong to the clan. (Well, would you like someone to camp on you front lawn without asking?) The chief was a dignified man who spoke excellent English. We sat on coconut matting in his house. He spent some time talking with us, sizing us up. We presented our kava root. He went through a short ceremony, accepted the kava and gave us the visiting rights. He changed into a formal black skirt and took us on a tour.Island



[ Part 2 ]
 
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