Fall 1996 Newsletter
Back to the Bahamas

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Although we have now sailed to 23 countries in the Mediterranean, South America and the Caribbean aboard our Classic 37 sailboat, we never get tired of returning to the Bahamas. It's one of our favourite cruising grounds since it offers all the things we love - numerous anchorages; crystal clear water for swimming and sailing; abundant marine life for snorkeling, diving and fishing; a warm climate and friendly people. This winter we made our fourth visit to these beautiful islands and, as usual, were delighted by new experiences and adventures.

Two-Step had been in dry dock for several months at Indiantown Marina near Stuart, Florida, while we spent time at home with our families and friends in Mississauga, Canada, and completed our new book, Sail Away! A Guide to Outfitting and Provisioning for Cruising (Pelagic Press). Sail Away! was officially launched at the Toronto International Boat Show in January and, exhausted after the whirlwind of book promotion, we were happy to get back to the boat.

Two-Step had been well cared for, but the Florida heat had taken its toll and it took us several days to revive her before re-launching. By mid-February, we were back in the water and heading down the Intracoastal Waterway to meet Colin Baird in Boca Raton. Colin co-produced our first television documentary, Call of the Ocean (which now plays on The Discovery Channel) and is working with us on our new Cruising with the Shards video series. He flew down from Toronto to help us with the first video in the series, Cruising the Bahamas with Paul and Sheryl Shard. It includes all our best footage from our four trips to these islands. Sail across the banks, dive the beautiful reefs, meet the locals and learn techniques for safely anchoring and navigating through the shallow waters. Of course, there is lots of adventure too - a face to face encounter with a feeding-frenzy of sharks, a dismasting in Nassau harbour and a terrifying night battling Hurricane Bertha.

With Colin aboard ready for his first bluewater passage, we waited for good weather at Key Biscayne to cross the powerful Gulf Stream current that separates the Bahamas from the continent. We anchored in Biscayne Bay not far from Richard Nixon's former residence. Even though you can see the bright lights of Miami in the distance, Key Biscayne feels quite remote. Dolphins played around Two-Step and we had some lovely sunsets. The lights of the city on the horizon were such a contrast to the tranquility of our immediate surroundings that it really made us appreciate the beauty around us. Finally we got the light southerly winds we were waiting for (northerly winds go against the flow of the Gulf Stream and the result is large confused seas) and departed out the channel through Stiltsville at 0200.

Stiltsville is a community of homes built on stilts (pilings) out in the middle of the water. (Is this a ploy to avoid land taxes?) Most of the homes are deserted now or used only as vacation homes. As we proceeded cautiously between the reefs picking up the channel markers with our spotlight, these strange ghostly buildings popped out of the darkness too. Finally we were clear and headed out into the black night.

We'd never seen the Gulf Stream so calm and motor-sailed through the night, making landfall in the Bahamas at Bimini at 1200. The weather was perfect during the 10 days that Colin was aboard and we cruised the Bimini group of islands at a leisurely pace enjoying the abundance of lobster and conch for seafood feasts, the beautiful white sand beaches, blue water and sunshine. It was hard to believe that it was winter back in Canada. Colin departed on a seaplane from Bimini harbour and the weather quickly changed. We had several fronts over the next few weeks with strong winds and heavy rain. (The locals call these winter storms "northers") On one occasion, we had to put out a three anchors to hold the boat in place as the howling winds swung around. Still, it beats snow and ice!

More then we ever planned to learn about Hurricanes!

A good hurricane plot showing all the different ones this year. Note that they all go through, or very near, New Bern where we are keeping our boat! Good plan huh? Well, the marina where we chose to dock Two-Step, Northwest Creek Marina, turned out to be the smartest thing we've done! Winds got up to 80-100mph but there was no wave action to speak of in the harbour.

The Morning after in New Bern NC. We drove the few miles to the downtown and found the other marinas had been trashed. The river was too exposed!! One marina, right on the river had scarcely a boat left afloat! Docks, boats and everything were scattered around the grounds of the hotel.

Probably 50 boats were destroyed. Some were piled up and sunk, some were in the streets of the town, washed up in the high water of the storm. Water levels went 5 feet above normal.

A number of people left their sails on the roller furler, and when the wind unfurled them, the strain was too much!

 

 

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