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Another French Strike!
Covers December 15 to 17, 2000

The bloody French and their strikes! We have been delayed by the incompetence and strikes of this system, for a voyage that could have been made in three to four weeks but has taken up to twelve weeks. We were stuck in Tournon from December 10 to 16 because of this lock keepers’ strike. It ended on the 15th, and we left the morning of the 16th , but we are stuck here at this lock, again, hopefully for only a day or perhaps a few more hours, but with their mentality, nothing is for sure until we are through.

We entered the system on October 1, and as reported in earlier logs we had no problems up to Paris. From there we had originally planned to go the southern route through the Canal Lateral du Loire and the Canal du Centre. However, we were informed these were closed due to lack of water in their reservoir system. This in the wettest fall for many years! However, we subsequently found out the lack of water was due to leaking from their reservoirs. Their own bloody fault!

So we had to look at alternatives. The best appeared to be up the Marne, but it was presently closed. The stretch to Meaux was, we were told, open, Meaux itself would open on October 25, and the stretch beyond Dizy would open on October 30. However, we were unexpectedly stopped at Ecluse de Chalifert when we tried to get up there on October 24, to be told by the eclusier that they would not be open until October 30! So we went back to Lagny, made our visit to London from there, and returned to continue on November 7, expecting all the locks to be open all the way to the Med.

Well, we got through the Marne River and Canal Lateral du Marne and the Marne a la Saone Canal, to get onto the Saone River on November 23, into a nice marina at Pontailler sur Saone just off the river. OK, but we were then stuck inside the marina for eleven days as the water level had risen to the extent we could not clear the bridge to get out into the river. When we were finally able to leave December 5, we thought it was all downhill from here. No way!

On December 10 at Ecluse de Gervans, we were informed the next lock, Ecluse de Bourg-les-Valence was closed. We took a chance that we could get in at Tournon, a few kilometers upstream from it, as the charted depth indicated only 1.0m, and we draw 1.5m. However, there was just enough for us to get in. It was a good spot as we were right downtown, and had free dockage, water and electricity. However, we found out that the lock closure was a result of a lock keepers’ strike, and had been on since the last week of November. There were boats that had been tied up for two weeks!

The issue seemed to be the privatization that was taking place, and the eclusiers wanted to protect their cushy civil service (Hah!) perks. Barges and pleasure boats were piling up on both sides of the lock. Apparently there was a bit of friction when some of the large company seagoing barges wanted to turn around and go back to another port to offload their cargo. There are three levels of shipping that use the Rhone. One is the peniches, small family owned cargo barges about 35m in length; another is the larger Rhone barges, 85m, still family owned and operated; then the big, 95m+, mariners, ship/barges that ply the ocean and the Med, but are low enough, or have the bridges that can be elevated or lowered to get up under the Rhone bridges, and are owned by large companies. When these wanted to turn around, the peniches did not co-operate, blocking their way, forcing the big companies to put more pressure on the government to settle somehow.

We heard on December 15 that the strike was settled, then heard the locks were still closed, then open, after safety checks were made. So we set off at 0830 on December 16, arriving at the lock by 1000 to find three large barges and 5 pleasure boats waiting. At 1115 we were told to be ready to go in, but the lock closed after only three pleasure boats entered. We were frustrated as there was room to have squeezed us all in had any of the eclusier staff came done to assess the situation. 

We went into the waiting area again. At 1310 after three large barges were in we tried again, only to have the gate closed in front of us. There was room for several small yachts, but there was no communication with the lock and we were shut out again. Then at 1415, again there was room inside for the three yachts waiting! In the meantime more barges were coming down and of course received priority. They obviously have no consideration for the pleasure boats, do not try to work us in, do not communicate with us to let us know what the situation is or explain the delays as to why we could not be accommodated at the end of the lock behind the barges. The gate to the control tower is locked. They do not respond to VHF, only that commerce has priority. We may be here the whole #%&x$@ day, losing another day to get to the Med and try for Barcelona for Christmas. 

After five lock-throughs of other ships, finally at 1700, just 15 minutes before sunset, we were allowed to enter the lock, in company with one marinier, one peniche and three other pleasure boats. The whole #x%@# day spent waiting for those inconsiderate "workers". It was 1731, after sunset, that we cleared the damn Ecluse de Bourg-les-Valences, and we had to make our way downstream in the dark to moor between two barges just below Pont de Valence.

To complicate matters, there were two German pleasure boats travelling in company, a sailboat, the Boheme, and a green and brown motor sailor flying an Irish flag. Boheme was ahead of us and the Irish boat astern. Boheme turned upstream to go alongside above the barges. I turned up as well intending to go astern of the barges but as I was approaching the concrete embankment, Judy yelled that there were rocks below the surface. I eased out, going up alongside the barges, past Boheme. 

Keep in mind, this was in the dark, no lights on the concrete wall we were approaching, few bollards to secure to, and a three knot river current made more turbulent by the bridge abutments 100m upstream. As I was coming up about parallel to Boheme, intending to go ahead of him, focussing my attention on the shoreline, looking for any bollards that we might secure to, Judy yelled at me, and here the Irish boat was just astern of me yelling at me to get out of the way! He intended to go alongside the Boheme. What poor, inconsiderate, and dangerous seamanship!

In sailing as in driving, the vessel ahead has the right of way, and overtaking vessels are to stay clear and give way. I’m not sure if I didn’t swear at him, but I immediately throttled up, hauled off and cleared away from the situation as I didn’t trust the idiot whatever. I then circled downstream and went in between two barges. Whew, what a hectic, frustrating day!

Next day we left at 0755, before sunrise at 0813, but with enough predawn light to see. By 0855 we were at the next lock, Ecluse de Beauchatel (height 13.65m). A large double pusher barge combination was coming up behind us and had priority, and as no room was left behind it, we had to wait. While waiting, another two barges came up and entered when the lock opened. "Oh no", I thought, not again! However after I had resigned myself to missing this lock through, a man came down to the entrance and waved us in, able to squeeze three of us behind the barges. Thank you, thank you! The workers at the lock yesterday could have done the same thing with a bit of consideration with the noon hour lock, and saved us a whole day. By 1055, we had cleared this first lock and were on our way. Two hours; not bad.

The next lock, Ecluse du Logis-Neuf we had to wait for 45 minutes but once in we went down the 13.75m in about 20 minutes, and were through it by 1310. These locks all have floating bollards and are easy to secure to, and there is no turbulence in the locks when going down, making the procedure quite comfortable. The next two locks we were able to go right in and were through within 20 minutes each. Ecluse de Chateauneuf was 18.5m and Ecluse Bolene, the highest in the system was 23.0m. However, it was sunset when we cleared it and still had an hours motoring down the river in the dark to St. Etienne des Sorts. We were well on our way, and now it is touch and go as to whether we will be able to make Barcelona for Christmas

 

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