To Thira (the Cyclades) and Rhodes (the Dodecanese) Kemer, Turkey Covers the period Nov. 8 to 12, 2001 Milos is in a group of islands in the southern Aegean known as the Cyclades, so called as they more or less encircled Delos, the ancient centre of trade and worship. On our way from Adhamus to Apollonia, a distance of only 11 miles, we motored the 4 miles out the large Ormos Milou, enjoying the views of the small fishing villages, their whitewashed houses, with vibrant blue trim, built right into the rock walls on the shoreline so they can winch their small fishing boats into the attached "garages". High on the summit, the chora (town or community) of Plaka looked like a snowy peak, the ancient white houses reflecting brightly the minimal sunlight against the dull wet grey of the mountain top. Altering to starboard, we skirted the north coast to see an island of columnar rocks that was mentioned in our Lonely Planet Guide. It was an interesting formation of octagonal columnar basalt, but not as dramatic as Staffa in the Scottish Hebrides.  Rounding the point, Ak Pelekoudha, we entered the east facing bay of Apollonia between two white, blue-domed, Greek Orthodox chapels on the points. It was sandy bottomed, with a single concrete fishing pier on the south shore, aligned north/south , about 30 metres in length on the seaward side where we moored (36° 45.9' N, 024° 31.6 E). Being on the east side of the pier we were well sheltered from any S or SW winds, a comforting location after the frightening experience of Adhamus. The outboard would not be ready until next day. We were favourably impressed with the dealership, Koynos Marine, as he had to order several parts, which arrived the following day, and he had the engine ready that same afternoon. We had a chance to see the engine apart to see what parts were needed. He asked if we wanted a valve job done or the piston rings replaced while it was open. We declined. as on an engine only 18 months old, such should not be necessary (once he knew its age, he agreed). We then saw the engine, repaired, still in the tank and running smoothly. We informed him we would not be using the engine again until spring and he ran the engine dry, blowing in some anti-corrosion spray. He also recommended that in the Eastern Med we use an oil: gas mix of 1:200, rather than the original manufacturer's 1:100. He delivered the engine the 300 metres to Veleda at the dock, and we strapped it on board. The cost came to 153,000 drachmas, about $450 Canadian.  That cost, plus the repair to Sprite and straightening out our bow pulpit, which was also damaged in the storm by the lines crossing from Kajsa, will probably make this worth an insurance claim. We faxed Pantaenius in London with the situation and a copy of the invoice, and indicated we would forward other estimates when we get to Kemer in Turkey. We'll see how co-operative they are in settling this possible claim. Apollonia is a pleasant little tourist town with a lovely sand beach, playground, public washroom, and beach showers. Several restaurants and tavernas line the shore side street near the fishing dock where we were located. We saw several fishing boats come in once or twice in the day with small catches that the locals came down to purchase from them; a meager return for a day out fishing. We left in the dark at 2130 for a 53 mile overnight passage to arrive in Thira (also known as Santorini) at 0800 next day, again to an incomplete but secure marina at Vlikadha on the SW corner (36° 20.2' N, 025° 26.1' E). Kajsa was there, but no one was on board. The crossing was uneventful in a brisk force 5/6 SSW wind, as we headed in an ESE direction, but slightly complicated by two factors. One, the main halyard was caught in our mast ste ps and couldn't be freed without going up the mast, which we did not wish to risk at night in 2 metre seas. The second problem was with our new Simrad wheel pilot; the inner plastic liner in the circular outer ring was separating, and so we had to hand steer the whole night. We had enough wind to sail for a couple of hours, with the genoa only, at hull speed. Near midnight the wind increased to force 7, causing us to reef it 50%. However, the increased wind was accompanied by corresponding increased beam seas, causing an uncomfortable roll. After midnight the wind dropped back to a force 5, and to combat the rolling, we unfurled the reef in the genoa, turned on the engine and motor sailed the rest of the way. Thira is a gigantic volcanic caldera, the main island shaped like a crescent moon, encompassing a bay 5 miles wide, facing west, and partially protected by a smaller island on the outer circumference called Thirasia. In the middle of this bay are two black volcanic islands of cinder and lava, called Palaia Kammeni and Nea Kammeni (Old and New Kammeni). Before 2000 BC, Thira and Crete were populated by the advanced, creative Minoan civilzation. The ruins at Akrotari on the SW arm of Thira are a testimony to that culture. This civilization ended abruptly around 1400 BC because of gigantic explosions of the volcano which also caused tsunamis which rolled over Crete, 60 miles away, with tidal waves 60 to 100 metres high, travelling at up to 160 km per hour, and covering it with 10 to 75 cm of volcanic ash. Thira is 5 times the size of Krakatoa, near Java, which had the largest volcanic eruption in recent history in 1883. The eruption of Thira is calculated to have been three times the force of Krakatoa. Some of the known statistics of Krakatoa are that 23 square miles of island disappeared, blast damage was caused to houses 160 km away, and tidal waves 17 metres high were reported at a lighthouse 88 km away, destroyed 300 towns and killed 36,000 people. (The above information from Rod Heikell's Greek Waters Pilot). I've just finished reading Alistair Maclean's novel, "Santorini" which uses Thira (Santorini) as the backdrop to a fantastic scenario where by a bomber carrying nuclear bombs crashed off Cape Akritori, not too far from where we were moored. The fear was that if they exploded, they would be powerful enough to initiate a tectonic shift in this sensitive area causing earthquakes and releasing a thermal plume and volcanic eruptions creating a cataclysm worse than the eruptions of the 1400 BC, with the spread of ash and radioactivity creating a nuclear winter, and the resultant tsunami inundating the entire eastern Mediterranean. I hope I haven't spoiled the book for anyone, but it was written in 1986. Thira is still active. In 236 BC Thirasia was separated from Thira in another large eruption. In 196 BC Palaia Kammeni was formed, and in 1711-12 Nea Kammeni was spawned. Thus the five mile wide bay is a gigantic caldera, with the Kammeni islands the still smoldering plug. We took a tour boat out (Talk about busmen's holidays!) to Nea Kammeni, and climbed to the top of the black lava strewn crater to see and smell the sulphurous steam still seeping through the rim, then went to swim in the hot springs of Palaia Kammeni. They weren't hot, but only lukewarm, with sulphurous bubbles oozing up through the red-brown mud in one of the inlets. Some authorities speculate that it was Thira that spawned the legend of the Lost Continent of Atlantis. The town of Thira is a popular tourist destination with several cruise ships anchoring in the dramatic backdrop of the bay 300 metres below. We walked down the long zigzag walkway (580 steps) to the tour boat to the volcanic islands in the middle of the bay, but rode donkeys on the way back up. We drove a rental car around the island and to Akrotiri, only to find it was closed either for the season or for repairs. Judy will want to return to Thira if only to visit Akrotiri (possibly two and a half years from now on our way out the Med). Joan and Rune on Kajsa left the day before us, and were heading up to Kos, while our next destination was Rhodes, the last stop before our winter home in Kemer, Turkey. We were getting anxious to get there and to get off the increasing winter-stormy waters of the Aegean. We left at 0730 just before dawn for the 140 mile overnight passage to the famed isle of Rhodes in the Dodecanese chain of islands, the last before leaving Greek waters. We were headed east, with light force 3 to 4 northerly winds. For a pleasant change, we were able to sail most of the trip at close to hull speed. Our day's run for the first 24 hours was 120 nautical miles, during which we sailed 17 hours, all be it hand steering hour on and hour off. At sunset we double reefed the main and genoa, and sailed in a brisk force 6/7 until about 0130 when we were in the lee of Nisos Tilos, and the wind dropped to a light force 3. Once out of the lee the wind went back up but only to force 5, enough to let us enjoy more sailing. We did not encounter much shipping on the passage, and as we approached the north end of Rhodes, we could see across to the mountains of the Turkish coast, about 25 miles away. By 1230 we entered Mandraki Harbour, the old harbour of Rhodos, between two columns supporting deer sculptures, the symbol of Rhodes. This same entry was (according to some authorities) in ancient times straddled by the Colossus of Rhodes, one of the wonders of the ancient world. The harbour was filled with flotilla sailboats, caique tour boats, catamaran and hydrofoil ferries, coast guard and rescue boats. There was space on the pontoon docks across from the post office, law courts, coast guard office and National Theatre, and adjacent to an ornate Greek Orthodox church and the elegant arched Venetian Gothic Government House, all part of "New Town". Across the harbour could be seen three medieval windmills and the 15th century fortress of Agios Nikolaos. Down the harbour could be seen the centerpiece of the "New Town", the domed New Market, its covered arcades housing a delightful range of produce stalls, boutiques, restaurants, jewelry stores, fast food outlets and gyros shops, with taxi stands and bus station adjacent. Beyond this market could be seen the ramparts of the living medieval citadel called Old Town, the most picturesque fortress we have seen since Valetta in Malta. All this visible from our mooring at the pontoon (36° 27.0' N, 028° 13.5' E). In my next log on Rhodes will be the sights, storms and complications experienced in this historic venue before our final passage to Turkey.
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