Iskenderun to Syria Fethiye, Turkey May 24, 2002 I forgot to mention that our friend, David Mulholland left us in Mersin. We missed the extra hand after an overnight sail. It would have been nice had he been able to stay with us as the hectic schedule of night passages is eased if there are three or more aboard. However this first day in Iskenderun (we got in at 0830 on May 24th) was an easy one with no tours lined up. There was a shopping expedition to a local supermarket for supplies as we were cautioned that resupplying in Syria or Lebanon would be difficult. An enterprising local came to the docks on his motor scooter offering to cut hair. A few men took advantage of his dubious services. There were also a few mix-ups here, and the rally dinner was moved up to the first night in port. Next day we went on a tour to ancient Antioch. However, an interesting part of the tour was the opportunity to talk to a few Tourism students from the local college who accompanied us. At lunch that day we talked with them about their life in Turkey. They were not big city young people, but from the Iskenderun area, working on their English and hoping that the economy would pick up so they might get jobs in their own or a related field when they graduate, or after their compulsory military service. They accepted arranged marriages even though they were not overly religious. They hoped Turkey would get into the European Union, but had misgivings about some of the cultural changes Turkey would have to undergo to gain admission. They seemed to have an innocence and a simplistic traditional acceptance of life. I wish them all the best. The tour itself went to ancient Antioch, and was much as I described in the write-up I sent with my last log. We saw the Church of St. Peter, a cave sanctuary above the city where St. Peter, St. Paul and St. Barnabus preached in about 47 AD. It was also being visited by groups of school children who delighted in trying their few words of English on us, or pressing little flowers picked from the pathways on us. Their favorite words were, "Hello, what's your name?" Not much after that other than giggles and posing for pictures. The Archeological Museum was very good, but not the best we have seen. We have been spoiled by some of the truly great archeological museums in London, Paris, Tunisia, and Syracuse in Sicily. The city itself is a tired old dusty mid-eastern town. This area was at one time part of Syria. In the afternoon we went down the coast to Seleucia Pieria and hiked up the chasm and tunnel dug by Vespasian in 79 AD to channel the river when in flood and to bring water to the city. Near the upper reaches of the tunnel we explored the dusty cavernous remains of the necropolis and its rock tombs. These weren't catacombs as such, as they were dug into the sides of soft sandstone rock walls, as opposed to the vast underground burial tunnels in Rome or Malta. After all that climbing we were tired and slept on the way back in the bus. When we got back to the boats at about 1730, we had to rush to prepare food for a "pot luck" supper we were having on the dock, as the rally dinner for that night had been moved to the previous night. This type of meal is good as there is always a great variety of dishes prepared. However, there were not enough tables on which to lay out the food, and it got dark before all the food was put out. There was no light on the dock as the sound system had blown a circuit, and even the lamps on the dock were out. So we scrambled to get coal oil lamps and flashlights from different boats. Then what we thought was going to be a rally potluck turned into a community supper as many people from town, the docks and the tourism students showed up, of course without food and without eating utensils. So, many of us went back to our boats to get more plates and cutlery for these extra people. A free bar and loud disco music was provided by the town. In spite of the problems, people mingled and had a good time. Iskenderun has a lovely waterfront, and a large commercial dock area, but the camber we were in was for small boats and fishing trawlers. There were no finger docks or services available. The marina representative hopes to be able to develop the area into a proper yacht marina and put the fishing boats on one side only or get rid of them altogether as they are not economically viable. Iskenderun is on the east coast of the Mediterranean, just north of Syria. Our coastal cruising now will be due south as we head for Syria, Lebanon and Israel. However we must stay at least six miles off the Syrian, Lebanese, and Israeli coasts, and when entering harbours do so at right angles to the coastline. All these countries are very security conscious, and we have been cautioned to follow the passage plans very closely. We left Iskenderun at 1800 on May 26, for the overnight passage to Lattakia in Syria. There were a few complications on this voyage, including a fishing fleet at the cape, Akinci Burnu. We passed warnings as to where they were located, but without radar determination of their course and speeds was impossible. They operate in small groups or independently around major capes at night when the fish are running. They may be stationary or trawling individually, or dragging a trawl between two boats widely separated. So to avoid them we need to go well ahead or well astern of them, and not go between them. Generally going seaward of them seems to be the safest course. Often they do not show navigation or proper fishing lights, and when we see a white light only, it could be; a boat at anchor (unlikely out there); a light on a fishing buoy marking a single net or part of a line of nets, the direction of which is uncertain; the working light of an open fishing boat hauling, dragging or deploying his nets or long lines. They are oblivious to yachts sailing the area. At 2100 I saw a white light off my port bow. At first it appeared stationary, then started to move from left to right, crossing my bow. There were no port or starboard (red or green) lights showing. By the rules of the road, Veleda had the right of way, but I didn't trust his observation of the rules. He crossed my bow slowly about 35 metres ahead of me, then altered course to starboard slowly coming about 75 metres off my starboard beam. Then THUNK!! We hit a net and the engine immediately seized up and stopped. I focused the binoculars on the fishing boat and saw that it was a single fisherman in an open boat with a gas lantern for light working on his nets. I shone my flashlight at him to see if he would render any assistance, especially if I had caught his net in my prop. He did nothing but continue to slowly motor away. I felt the stupid SOB purposefully crossed my bow dragging a net to foul me. Needless to say I was angry at his poor seamanship. The sea was calm, and so we rigged a life line and flashlight on the stern, and Judy went in the water with mask and snorkel and our faithful serrated bread knife to cut it free. I told her not to try to be careful of his net and cut it off, as I would be happy for him to lose the line for causing us to hit it. As it was, Judy was able to unravel it and came up with a thick clump of polypropylene line and net material that weighed 15 to 20 pounds (7 to 10 kilo). It was not a single net, but a clutter of several fragments of nets that had been caught up over time in the water. I was confused as to whether that small boat had towed that clump behind it on his lines and crossed our bow with it to see if he could foul a yacht, or of he had accidentally caught his lines on it and was trying to clear them, thus not watching his progress through the water, or whether it was just a bad coincidence that I managed to hit that floating clump shortly after he crossed my bow. Aaarrgghhh!! The incident delayed us only a half hour before we were under way again. We lifted that mass of net and line on board so some other vessel would not get fouled by it. It was a good thing the sea was calm, and we could go in the water to free it. Another advantage with Veleda is that her propeller shaft is angled off to starboard by 15 degrees, and is rather shallow, allowing us to reach the prop from the surface using mask and snorkel. This arrangement does not adversely affect the ability of Veleda to track through the water ahead or astern. In fact when manouevering in port, she backs up well and is under control. The main disadvantage is that sometimes when motor sailing but heeled over to starboard in a heavy sea the prop comes close to the surface and may cause some cavitation. In addition, the prop is not protected by the keel, and may more easily foul on line and nets passing by. This is a design characteristic of the Ontario 32's and seems to work well for her. As we continued, we noticed several other small problems. Our engine wasn't charging our batteries, and we noticed excess water in the drip basin below the engine. Where was the water coming from? Why wasn't it charging? Then we noticed our bow mounted red and green navigation lights were not working properly. We switched to our masthead sailing light. Strictly speaking the masthead light (a trilight with red and green in the forward quadrants and a white light in the aft section) should be used when under sail power only. However, it was better than nothing and was high on the mast giving better visibility. Then as we were getting ready to enter Lattakia, the engine faltered and died. The fuel squeeze bulb we had on the fuel line was soft, and the fuel supply was reduced, probably as a result of a low fuel level in the tank. While the engine was off we checked the water and the charging problems. Water seemed to be coming from the water pump. The charging problem was caused by a disconnected wire from our "smart regulator" to our alternator. That was reconnected and we would have to examine the water pump at a later date. It was not crucial as it was only a small leak, but needed to be addressed. (While in Herzliya Mike from III Sheets to the Wind checked this for us, and determined that the leak was from a faulty oil seal, and that as well there was a bit of roughness on the water pump shaft preventing proper seating of the impeller, this likely the cause of some of our water flow problems. Repairs were done there, and we have had no difficulties with this system subsequently.) We got under way again and entered harbour at Lattakia, Syria, 35 32.6N, 035 45.8E, using our stern anchor to come in to a Mediterranean mooring. At least here they had electricity and water on the docks and a nice washrooms and shower areas. We had a good reception from the staff and completed the paperwork (passports, two crew lists, yacht registration, and $75 per yacht and $10 per person entry fee). We were in Syria, with some fascinating tours to look forward to. I have added below the write-up I put in the rally bible, a schedule which we were happy to follow closely. I will provide additional details of our trips to Ugarit, Damascus, Krak des Chavaliers, and fabled Palmyra in the desert. 4/ Lattakia, Syria Arrive - Mon. 27 May (am) Depart - Thurs. 30 May The Syrian Arab Republic is bordered on the north by Turkey, on the east and southeast by Iraq, on the south and southwest by Jordan, on the southwest by Israel, and on the west by Lebanon and the Mediterranean Sea. Syria is at the heart of a region that has experienced intense political conflict since World War II. Its strategic location and considerable military power give it a political significance within the Middle East that contrasts with its small size of 71,498 square miles (185,179 square kilometers) and economic potential. Syria has been deeply involved in many of the region's political problems. Almost all Syrians are Arabs. Arabic is the first language of 85 to 90 percent of the population. The largest non-Arab group is the Kurds (6 percent). About 90 percent of Syrians are Muslims, but they belong to several sects. Sunni Muslims make up some 75 percent of the population. Approximately 15 percent of Syrians belong to three splinter Shi'ite Muslim sects: the 'Alawites (12 percent), Druzes (3 percent), and Isma'ilis (less than 1 percent). The 'Alawites have played a key (and controversial) role in Syria's political life since 1963, despite their minority status, because of their over-representation in the military and the Baath party, which rules the country. Many prominent members of the political elite are 'Alawites. The non-Muslim population is largely Christian and is concentrated in Damascus and Aleppo. Syria is also the home of 300,000 refugees, most of them Palestinians. On the afternoon of our arrival you are free to visit Lattakia for re-supply or other shopping, or to enjoy their sand beaches just to the north of the marina. However an interesting afternoon tour would be to visit the ruins of Ugarit, now known as "Ras Shamra", 13 km north of town. It is an extensive "tell" 20 metres high, covering an area of 36 hectares, only 25% of which has been excavated. Archaeological layers confirm 5 periods of life, starting with the first (most recent) level from 1600 to 1200 BC, which was the high point of the development of the kingdom of Ugarit before its destruction by earthquake or the piratical ravages of the Peoples of the Sea (the Philistines). After this period, Ugarit lay undiscovered for 3000 years until accidentally found by a local farmer in 1928, and subsequently became a major archeological find. The fifth level dates back to 7500 to 6000 BC, the Modern Stone Age, with Ugarit forming an important model for the first agricultural villages and the "civilization" of human groups. It was in Ugarit on the 15th century BC that the consonantic alphabet was invented (i.e. an alphabet where only consonants were indicated, with no vowels). All our Western written languages owe their existence to the Ugarthic alphabet through the Byblos, Greek and Roman alphabets. Thus Ugarit would be a good tour to take. Lattakia is the major port for the Syrian Arab Republic, and starting point for a two day journey to the fabled ancient cities of Damascus and Palmyra. Damascus, located between the mountains and the Syrian Desert on a natural migration and trade route, claims to be the world's oldest continually inhabited city, over 4000 years old. Its first historic reference is its conquest in the 15th century BC by Pharaoh Thutmosis III, and in the history of Abraham in the Old Testament Book of Genesis, chapters 14 and 15. It was the ancient capital of the Aramean kingdom in the 11th century BC, and underwent many cultural and religious conquests over the next three thousand years. It was on his way to Damascus that Saul, who was sent to put down the followers of Christ, was converted to become St Paul the Apostle preaching the new faith. The architectural remains, heathen temples, Christian basilicas, mosques, and the narrow streets and souks of the old city are to be savored. You will be accosted by the shopkeepers and are expected to bargain for everything. Must sees include the Souk Hamidiyeh, the Mosque of the Omayyads (the Great Mosque) also containing the precious relic of the head of St. John the Baptist (there was a Byzantine church on the site before it became a mosque) as well as its three minarets and Madrassas (Koranic schools of theology), and the Syrian National Museum. Towards the coast from the city of Homs we will visit Krak des Chevaliers, a magnificent well preserved castle that started as a Crusader fortress in 1170 AD, and had subsequent ramparts built a century later by the victorious Sultan Beybars. This fortress castle stands on a mount 2300 feet high, dominating a gap in the mountains, effectively controlling the only pass from Antioch to the north to Beirut to the south. Restored by the French in 1934 during their League of Nations Mandate over Syria, its grandeur was considered "a monument of France", and the Kraak is the best preserved of all the Crusader fortresses in the Mid East. Then 150 km NE of Damascus we visit the Queen of the Desert, Palmyra, an ancient trade route city subject to several incarnations, but never abandoned because of its location in a perpetually water-fed oasis. Its quadruple Great Colonnade flanks the main street for 1.6 km ending in a triumphal arch and temple. Taking over after the decline of Petra (in Jordan), it was the Mediterranean end of the trade route to the Orient (from China, Northern India/Pakistan, across the Arabian Sea, up the Persian Gulf, across Iraq and the Syrian or Arabian Deserts to Palmyra and into the Med.) until its destruction in 745 AD. We will return to Lattakia for a rally dinner on the 29th. Next day before leaving in the evening, there will be an interesting tour to Salah Eddin Citadel, Saladin's Castle, one of the most prestigious fortresses of Syria. Strategically located on a mountain spur at the junction of two ravines, this fortress was variously controlled by the Phoenicians, Byzantines, Crusaders, and finally by Saladin, who conquered it in 1188. Access to the castle was defended by a moat with walls 20 metres high on one side and over 50 metres on the other. The power and savage beauty of this location makes it a worthwhile trip.
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