Vis & Hvar Levkada September 8 - 11, 2001 We weighed anchor and left Split after enjoying the morning market outside the walls of Diocletian's Palace and making arrangements with the Jadrolinija Ferries for our guests to depart from Hvar, returning to Split, then to Italy. So we were off to Viska Luka (43 03.6N, 016 11.2E) on the island of Vis, a strategic, idyllic island that is not yet overrun by tourist resorts. Vis was a military base for the Yugoslav army and off limits to the public until 1989. It was occupied by Italy during WW II, and some of the archeological sites were badly damaged by the military bases and the resultant bombing. We went through the ancient Greek cemetery and Roman baths overlooking the harbour, both in a state of neglect, on "private property", their archeological treasures on the surface, overgrown with scrub brush. When I went to the archeological museum in the old Venetian fortress, the volunteer worker was lamenting the fact that since these ruins were on private land, good systematic research and care for the antiquities could not be undertaken. The museum itself was a good one, but I saw better ancient Greek tombstones out in that field, sadly beyond the protection of the museum. Inhabitation of the island dates back to Neolithic times, when it was settled by the ancient Illyrians. In 390 BC a Greek colony was established which expanded into a city state, founding its own daughter colonies on Korcula, Trogir and Stobrec. Then it underwent the usual (for these Adriatic islands) changes of rule, with the Roman empire, Slavic inhabitants, Venetian control, then Austria, France, England, Italy and Yugoslavia. It was a base for Tito's partisans during and after WW II. We were bows on to the town docks and paid a small amount (10 kuna per metre, so 100 kuna or about $20.00 Canadian), with water and electricity available. Stern mooring lines were used and we were right in front of a small market, with the fish market on one side and a few stores and restaurants on the other. A lovely central location. The town was two streets deep from the harbour road, with quaint cobblestone alleys, ancient houses and buildings, small flagstone squares, several wineries in operation (Vis is noted for its Vugava and Plavac wines), and a few churches, and schools. A most enjoyable community and island! We left early the next afternoon, Sept. 9, and made our way across to Hvar, to anchor in the crowded town harbour (43 10.3N, 016 26.4E) in about 30 feet of water. The island of Hvar is called the Croatian Madeira because of its sunny climate, and lush vegetation with brilliant patches of lavender, rosemary and heather. It is a popular tourist town and a stop for cruise ships, one of which came while we were there. During the night the wind picked up and a German boat dragged anchor into us, causing us to drag as well. We re-anchored, putting out 90 feet of chain for 30 foot depth, and we held OK. However all that night and next day we were entertained by boats doing the "anchoring dance".  Several boats dragged, others had a difficulties in properly setting their anchors. One boat dragged that night, and re-anchored unwisely, then dragged again next day. When boats drag, it is a slow process of realization. We watched this boat anchored outside of us, trying to determine if he was dragging. He was.  When will he realize it? Then we became aware that no one was on board. It continued to drag out of harbour towards an island at the outer entrance. What could, should we do? Claim salvage? Go on board and tow it - Where? Re-anchor it for him? But would that make us liable for any subsequent damage? Eventually it came to rest on some rocks off the island. Then we saw a local boat going out and thought a local would salvage it. Then the boat re-entered harbour under its own power, attempting to re-anchor again. This time he lost his dinghy, which my Judy then went with Sprite and recovered for him. She found out he was the charterer, and the rest of the crew was still ashore. He said he had "just" gone ashore for a coffee when the boat dragged ( We think he was absent for a much longer period) and he hired a local water taxi to take him out to his "rock resting" boat. Fortunately there were no heavy waves to bash it on the rocks, but the rudder was damaged.  Several boats, after frustrating attempts to anchor, gave up and went across the channel to the marina on the far side. We cautioned several boats to put out at least three to one chain (that means three feet of chain for every one foot of depth) as a minimum. Many didn't and they dragged. Our guests were quite entertained by the antics. Barb and I enjoyed a hike up to the castle/fortress dominating the pine covered slopes above Hvar. The old town, including its seaside promenade, is a pedestrian precinct allowing leisurely wandering through ancient marble paved streets and alleys.  The night before they were to leave, Judy and Barb treated us to a lovely meal at a pleasant restaurant on the main plaza. My Judy was intrigued by a sidewalk painter using spray cans, and a variety of paper stencils, edges, and sponges, and bought an abstract interplanetary landscape which now is hung inside our "heads". Next day, Sept. 11, when Judy and Barb were ready to leave, we were considering taking the bus with them to the town of Starigrad; however because of the tenuous anchorage situation we felt it would be better to stay with Veleda. Later that afternoon a German dinghy came by and asked if we were American. Then they told us of the attacks which had been made against the US. We immediately turned on our short wave radio to BBC and followed the horrendous events of that day of infamy when the world changed.
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