Log #38h Christmas in La Palma Written at: Ilha do Sal, Cape Verde Islands Jan 15, 2006 Hi Folks, We are stuck here for the third day at anchor 200 metres offshore in 30 to 45 knot winds. At least our wind generator is doing well, pumping over 100 amp hours a day into our batteries. The harmattan winds have been blowing steadily from Africa creating reduced visibility due to the dust haze blown across. Our anchor is holding well, and we do not want to risk weighing anchor for another location, as outside this wide bay we do not know what the swells will be like after three days of these continuous heavy winds. Inside we have this wide bay strewn with frothy whitecaps, but the waves are only two or three feet, and Veleda is swinging into them and the wind with only the occasional jerking motion. The island, Ilha do Sal, is low lying and does not provide a wind break. To go down to the next island would involve a 20 mile channel of open water, accelerated winds and who knows what size swells. We had weather like this last week when we arrived after five days of 40 knot winds and 4 to 5 metre swells. We will stay here until the winds die down. It gives me a chance to catch up on my logs, and so you may get several in short order. I hope to have them up to date by the time we leave the Cape Verdes for the Caribbean the end of January. This log details the enjoyable time we had rafted alongside the tall fully rigged ship, Lord Nelson, at Christmas on La Palma. Sailing since then has been in 30 to 45 knot winds all the time. We hope our crossing will not have such heavy winds. All the best, Aubrey Log #38h Christmas in La Palma The Yacht Club pontoon in Santa Cruz de La Palma was less than half occupied with a few foreign boats, a derelict old catamaran, a few local yachts and power boats. The pontoon led up into the industrial dock area, busy with trucks hauling containers to the main container pier 200 metres down from the pontoon, and large trailers awaiting or storing cargo. Thee is only the main entrance into this large industrial dock area about 400 metres down the jetty. There is a fuel station on the roadway just 100 metres across the parking lot, but since there was no direct access, I had to go all the way around to the main entrance, then back up the road to fill a jerry can with diesel. Fuel prices in the Canaries are about half of what they are on the mainland. Diesel costs only .65 cents Euro per litre, whereas on the mainland it would be from 1.23 to 1.27 per litre. Similarly, the Yacht Club located beyond the fuel station had no direct access to the port area or its pontoon. The yacht clubs over here seem to be more social and prestige places with sailing an incidental for those few who have boats. However, the pontoon had water and electricity available. Several other local boats were in this inner camber, but secured to the high rough dock walls, with the attendant problems of not only securing to the widely spaced bollards, but at most states of the tide were too far below the wall to get off the boat. A large British yacht came in and tied up along the wall for three days, unable to get off the boat all that time. On the 24th we were visited by Connie, the organizer of the Tall Ships Rendezvous, welcoming us with a couple of bottles of red wine, and an invitation for a reception at the Yacht Club Christmas afternoon. She indicated four and possibly five tall ships were expected, and that we could leave the inner harbour and go out to raft alongside one of them for the couple of days they would be in port. That afternoon two tall ships from the British Jubilee Sailing Trust, the Lord Nelson and the Stavros Niarchos, moored alongside the outer harbour. We walked over to introduce ourselves to the Lord Nelson and indicated we were part of the not-so-tall ships rendezvous, and asked permission to raft outside of it. No problem, the second in command indicated for us to come alongside when we were ready and to locate on the outboard starboard quarter of the ship and they would be ready to receive us. Great! We had dressed ship at the pontoon, and so motored out to the Lord Nelson with all flags flying. They were indeed ready to receive us, with their own large fenders over the side, and line handlers to receive our lines. We were secured just below a gate they opened in their side gunwale with an overhanging ladder for us to climb aboard. Steve, one of the ship’s engineers arranged for electricity for us, using our cable plugged into one of the ship’s transformers to provide us with 110 volt power. Steve also invited us to use the ship’s facilities, including a heads, shower, and even a laundry and a hose for water could be supplied if we wished. We were very cordially received by the regular crew and the paying crew (no passengers, as all were part of the watch system on board) who leaned over the side, interested in our small tall ship. Several came aboard to see how a small cruising yacht is set up. Most were impressed that we had sailed from Canada and had been living on board for eight years. A greatly appreciated invitation was issued by the Master, Clare Cupples, to join the ship for Christmas dinner next day. As well, we planned to join the Tall Ships tour bus trip in the morning to go up to the Caldera de Taburiente National Park, our original reason for wanting to come to La Palma. What a warm welcome and an interesting way to spend Christmas! Thank you Lord Nelson. Christmas Day was grey and cloudy. Judy had a few gifts and stocking stuffers for me, but unfortunately I had not been over town and was able to offer her a few promissory notes. We still enjoyed a pleasant breakfast in front of our small decorated tree, and left the string of lights up our forestay on all day. On the bus we wended our way up the mountain sides into thicker clouds. We stopped at one church and at another lookout before the clouds closed in and it started to rain. As we went higher the fog and rain grew thicker, eliminating visibility over the caldera. When we went to the information center, it was closed until the afternoon. The bus went across the spine of the island down to El Puerto on the west coast where we wandered around this rather tacky seaside town for an hour rest stop before boarding and returning to Santa Cruz. It was most unfortunate that the rain reduced the visibility so much. We were impressed that the bus was so well outfitted for handicapped access, having a full elevator lift at the back to raise a wheelchair and space in the rear of the bus for such appliances. This vehicle was specifically on the island to accommodate ships such as the Lord Nelson with any handicapped personnel. In the group from Lord Nelson, several were handicapped; two in wheelchairs, one on crutches, and three blind. I commented to the Master, Clare, about the excellent facilities the Lord Nelson had for the handicapped, and she indicated that such facilities were part of its “raison d’etre”. The vessel had several lifts that could be operated by the individual and the decks reasonably cleared for wheelchair transport. It was quite impressive, the accommodations for the handicapped. However, limited abilities did not excuse them from participating in the watch system, and other chores on board. We periodically would hear over the loudspeaker something about “Happy Hour”; but in the morning? We found out that “Happy Hour” was a euphemism for work party to clean ship, and every one turned out to do so, regardless of handicap or otherwise. On our return to Santa Cruz, we had the bus let us off at the Yacht Club for the reception. The ships’ officers from both tall ships were there, and a few other cruisers, as well as representatives from the Yacht Club. The Roald Amundsen, the German tall ship, had just come in that morning, but we did not have a chance to meet any of its crew. The presence of the third ship reminded me of the carol “I saw three ships come sailing in … on Christmas Day, on Christmas Day.” The officers thought there would be access to the Yacht Club from the harbour, but had great difficulty in clambering over wire fences and old containers to do so. Clare, in a straight skirt, had a particularly difficult time. When we went back to the ship for Christmas dinner in midafternoon, we took the road over to the entrance and then across the dock area, a more civilized but longer route. It was an enjoyable traditional English Christmas dinner, with exploding crackers containing crazy hats and party favours, red and white wines, shrimp cocktail, roast turkey with dressing, roasted potatoes, sausages wrapped in bacon, gravy, Brussels sprouts (I had Judy’s), bread sauce, plus delicious Christmas pudding with rum sauce. Mmmm! There was no ceremony and everyone just enjoyed themselves. I gave a short speech of appreciation for their hospitality and gave the master a couple of Canadian souvenirs and a CD we made up for the Toronto Boat Show on 90 Plus tips for Liveaboards and our Russian Navy Black Sea Fleet review pictures. The rest of the afternoon and evening we entertained guests on board, including Clare, the ship’s master. I think the people on Lord Nelson enjoyed seeing how a small boat operates, and our presence was appreciated by them. There were festivities on the dock, but these were dampened by the ongoing rain. The evening ended with a large fireworks display at the end of the jetty. A most pleasant and interesting Christmas Day! Thank you again Lord Nelson! On Boxing Day the rain held on, canceling a proposed whaler pulling contest between the three ships. We had earlier mentioned to Steve, the engineer who helped with the facilities alongside, about problems we had with our VHF. In the morning, the other Steve, the other engineer, came over to look at it. He assessed the problem to be the speaker and indicated a remote speaker would suffice. We did not have such, but a pair of headphones did the job nicely, and we now have an operational VHF, but are still looking for a remote speaker. Thanks Steve! I said goodbye to Clare, and exchanged E-mail addresses hoping that we could touch base again with her over in the Caribbean. Late morning we lowered our flags and departed back into the inner harbour as the Lord Nelson was going to leave soon. We had a very friendly wave off by several of the crew, the end to an enjoyable memorable Christmas in La Palma. Next log