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Log 44C Bequia to Hog
Island, Grenada
Written at : Hog Island, Grenada. July 21, 2007
I am writing this on our older laptop as our newer one has developed serious
problems, including an unknown firewall that prevents access to the internet.
The only way to rectify it is to wipe it completely and re-install everything.
However we have an important navigational program for which we do not have the
original software and fear that if we try to back it up and clean the drive, we
may not be able to re-install that program. A chap who tried to help us could
not download Firefox as an alternate internet option as it was firewalled, and
in trying to deactivate some of our virus protection may have opened the laptop
to contamination when trying to get on line. We had AVG as our primary defense,
but when we tried to get on line, that program was now called AVG Spyware, and a
message came up asking us to re-install it. So we fear we have no virus
protection whatever! Of course we cannot re-install it as we cannot get on the
internet! A perfect "Catch 22".
Oh well, nothing is ever simple!
All the best,
Aubrey
Log 44C Bequia to Hog Island, Grenada
We did a straight 70 mile passage from Rodney Bay on St. Lucia to anchor in
Admiralty Bay (13 00.42N, 061 14.40W) on Bequia, part of St Vincent and the
Grenadines. Bequia is another cruisers' haven with the sandy beach-side town of
Port Elizabeth a most pleasant low key atmosphere with customs and immigration
conveniently located across from the ferry dock, a central town market for fish
and vegetables, as well as several grocery stores, banks, restaurants, bars,
tackle shops, laundry facilities, internet cafes, taxis, car and scooter
rentals, and several beachside guest houses and small resorts. We were here last
spring during their Easter Regatta with many boats big and small and beach
parties every afternoon and evening.
We took a taxi out to the Turtle Sanctuary where Brother King gathers the newly
hatched turtles each night, and cares for them in specially built tanks until
these hawksbill turtles are up to five years old, then releases them back into
the ocean when they have a better chance for survival. We saw the various tanks
with turtles of differing ages and went along the shoreline to see several
newborn turtles only a few hours old, hatched in sandy nests, with a protective
tire placed over the nests, a wire net on top to shelter them from predators.
The newly hatched turtles would later be transferred to the tanks and cared for.
Bequia is a lush hilly island; as described by the pilotbook, it is isolated
enough to remain relatively unspoiled, but lively enough to be stimulating and
entertaining. It has good ferry connections to Kingstown and now has its own
airport. Admiralty Bay has good holding for anchoring and last year while here
we left Veleda at anchor for a day and took the ferry over to tour Kingstown on
St. Vincent.
A couple of days later, we heard a weather report of heavy weather coming soon,
and had to decide whether to stay put here to ride it out, or head on to
Grenada. We decided to go for Tyrrel Bay on Cariacou, part of Grenada, even
though the wind was up to 20 to 25 knots. At least the winds were in the right
direction, giving us a good broad reach all the way. As it was not until 1100
that we made the decision to go (on July 5th), and with 40 miles to go, we did
not want to risk a night entry, even though we have been in Tyrrel Bay several
times before. Thus although we could have sailed most of the way, we motor
sailed it to ensure a daylight entry, covering the 40 miles in 6 ½ hours. As we
entered Tyrrel Bay we waved to Honiara, a Canadian boat whom we met in St,
Martin, and again in Guadeloupe. We anchored in our usual spot (12 27.48N, 061
29.21W) just forward of a catamaran ferry that has been there for several years.
We could have anchored off Hillsborough which is the main town on Cariacou, and
has the customs and immigration, but we have found the holding there not very
good. So first thing in the morning we caught a local minibus into Hillsborough
to check in to Grenada for a three month period, saving us the trip into Prickly
Bay customs and immigration and allowing us to head directly for our favourite
location off Hog Island on the south coast of Grenada.
That was another 40 mile passage, with heavy easterly winds. Initially we
planned to go down the east, windward, coast of Grenada as it was a bit shorter
and the leg over to Hog Island would be a downwind course. However the windward
side with 20 knot winds and six foot seas was too heavy, and even though we were
on a broad reach, we didn't feel like pounding into it for another six hours or
more. After an hour we changed course to head over to the west, leeward, side of
Grenada, for a more sheltered passage.
Hah! That meant we had to cross close past Kick Em Jenny and Isle de Ronde, a
group of islands just north of Grenada. It was the roughest water we had
experienced since the North Sea gales! There were two knot currents against 25
knot winds creating high, confused seas, breaking waves and frothing white
water. These horrendous conditions lasted for a couple of hours until we got
south of the islands and west of London Bridge, into the lee of Grenada. At
least we didn't have to skirt around the exclusion zone of the underwater
volcano west of Kick Em Jenny. This is an active volcano which can erupt at any
time, and any vessel caught over it or near it would be in danger of sinking in
the bubbled waters or destroyed in a cataclysmic explosion, even though the
summit is more than 400 feet below the surface. Lots of fun!
Down the west coast of Grenada we saw familiar locations such as Gouyave, a
fishing village with a delectable fish fry every Friday night, as well as the
largest nutmeg factory for processing the spice for which Grenada is famous.
Further down we passed the unfortunate ugly inlet of Halifax Harbour, a polluted
bay with derelict ships and a garbage dump to ruin what could have been an
lovely anchorage for yachts. North of St. George's we passed Dragon Bay, a
pleasant inlet where we anchored last year for a night. It is near Mouliniere
Point, where an underwater park is being established with a set of submerged
concrete statues, and a derelict cargo vessel resurrected from the Lagoon in St.
George's after it sank in hurricane Emily a few years ago, now serving as a
coral and fish sanctuary for the delight of divers.
On past St. George's and Grande Anse, the luxury beach resort area, and around
Saline Point where we had to pound into the easterly winds, past True Blue and
Prickly Bay, around the shoals south of Mount Hartman, and at last into our
favourite anchorage at Hog Island. On entering we saw several boats that were
there last year and said "Hi" to George and Mary on Avalon V whom we last saw in
Culebra off Puerto Rico. We anchored forward of Pablo's trimaran at 12 00.08N,
061 44.42W, and shortly after were hailed by John and Deborah from Sea Witch,
still here after five or more years. We were home! r
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